DIY Plumbing Guide

How to fix a running toilet

A continuously running toilet can waste up to 200 gallons of water a day. The good news: 9 out of 10 cases can be fixed in under 20 minutes with a $5 part and no plumber. Here's exactly how.

⏱ 15–20 min💲 Under $15🛠 Beginner-friendly
Inside view of an open toilet tank showing the flapper, fill valve, float, and overflow tube

Quick answer

To fix a running toilet, lift the tank lid and check the flapper first — if it's warped or won't seal, replace it. If water keeps flowing into the overflow tube, lower the float. If neither helps, replace the fill valve. Most repairs take 15 minutes and cost under $15.

Tools & parts you'll need

Everything fits in a small bag. Hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon all stock the parts.

  • Adjustable wrench

    For supply nut and fill valve

  • Sponge & bucket

    To dry the tank

  • Replacement flapper

    Universal, $3–$8

  • Fill valve kit

    Fluidmaster 400A or Korky 528

  • Food coloring

    To test for leaks

  • Rubber gloves

    Optional but recommended

Know your toilet tank

Before you fix anything, it helps to know the names. Almost every running toilet comes down to one of these six parts.

Labeled diagram of the parts inside a toilet tank: flush handle, fill valve, float, overflow tube, chain, flapper, and flush valve
Standard tank anatomy — yours may look slightly different, but the function of each part is the same.

Step-by-step: how to fix a running toilet

Work through these in order. Most people stop at Step 2 or 3.

  1. 01

    Diagnose why your toilet is running

    Lift the tank lid and listen. A faint hiss usually means a fill valve problem. Water trickling into the bowl points to a flapper or flush valve leak. A quick test: add 5–10 drops of food coloring to the tank, wait 15 minutes without flushing, and check the bowl. Color in the bowl = the flapper is leaking.

  2. 02

    Check and adjust the flapper

    The flapper is the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. Over time it warps and lets water leak into the bowl, causing the fill valve to refill again and again. Turn off the water supply, flush to drain the tank, and inspect the flapper. If it's stiff, slimy, or warped, swap it for a universal replacement ($3–$8 at any hardware store).

  3. 03

    Adjust the float and water level

    If water keeps spilling into the overflow tube, your tank is overfilling. Lower the float so the water shuts off about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube. On modern fill valves, twist the adjustment screw or slide the float clip down. On older ball-and-arm floats, gently bend the arm downward.

  4. 04

    Inspect the fill valve

    If the toilet runs intermittently or hisses long after the flush, the fill valve is likely worn. Replace the seal cap first — that fixes most cases. If it still leaks, a full fill valve replacement (Fluidmaster 400A or Korky 528 are reliable) takes 15 minutes and costs around $12.

  5. 05

    Check the flush handle and chain

    A chain that's too short keeps the flapper from sealing. A chain that's too long gets sucked under the flapper. Adjust so there's about ½ inch of slack when the flapper is closed. Replace cracked or sticky flush handles — they can hold the flapper open just enough to keep the toilet running.

  6. 06

    Replace parts if the fix doesn't hold

    If you've adjusted everything and the toilet still runs, replace the whole flush valve assembly or fill valve. Universal repair kits ($20–$30) include everything you need and take under an hour. Shut off the water, sponge out the tank, unscrew the old assembly, and install the new one following the kit instructions.

Common causes at a glance

SymptomLikely causeFix
Water trickling into bowlWorn flapperReplace flapper (Step 2)
Constant hissingFill valve leakingReplace fill valve (Step 4)
Water in overflow tubeFloat set too highLower the float (Step 3)
Phantom flushesSlow flapper leakDye test & replace flapper
Handle stuck downTangled or short chainAdjust chain slack (Step 5)

When to call a plumber

Call a pro if water leaks from the base of the toilet (not the tank), if the supply valve is corroded shut, or if you replaced both the flapper and fill valve and the toilet still runs. Persistent running after a full rebuild usually points to a cracked flush valve seat, which requires removing the tank.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my toilet keep running?+

The most common cause is a worn or warped flapper that no longer seals the flush valve, letting water leak from the tank into the bowl. Other causes include a fill valve stuck open, a float set too high, or a flush chain tangled around the flapper.

Will a running toilet stop by itself?+

No. A running toilet rarely fixes itself. The underlying part — usually the flapper or fill valve — needs to be adjusted or replaced. Ignoring it can waste hundreds of gallons per day.

How much water does a running toilet waste?+

A continuously running toilet can waste up to 200 gallons per day, adding $20–$70 per month to your water bill, according to the EPA WaterSense program.

How much does it cost to fix a running toilet?+

A DIY fix typically costs $5–$30 for parts (flapper, fill valve, or full repair kit). Hiring a plumber usually runs $100–$200 for the same repair.

Can I fix a running toilet without turning off the water?+

You can adjust the float or chain without shutting off the water, but always close the supply valve before replacing the flapper, fill valve, or any part that requires draining the tank.

What if my toilet runs only at night or every few minutes?+

Intermittent running ('phantom flushing') almost always indicates a slow flapper leak. Run the food-coloring test in Step 1 to confirm, then replace the flapper.